Latest Posts
11 Jun

peaches in primitivo

Come summer here in Puglia, each of us of develops a strategy for keeping cool. For me it most often involves a 150 year old stoneware vessel kept the bottom of the refrigerator all through the summer months. In it you'll find peaches in primitivo,...

30 Jan

….overheard at this year's olive harvest in the deep Salento…..

  (Translated from dialect- and occasionally Italian- late November 2012)   'It's not like it used to be, now that the machines arrived. When I was a boy, we made honest oil, with brooms and fiscoli (the jute mats still occasionally used in the production of virgin and...

20 Aug

Gelato 2: Making it at Home

It all started with a letter in the mail. The page was scratched, almost attacked by green felt tip pen: it was a hand-written letter from Mario Batali, a well regarded, Italian-American restaurateur. Would I be interested in taking on his pastry chef for a few weeks?...

8 Aug

Il Gelato a Lecce

I was recently interviewed for a book about gelato, the author's voice coming out my end of the receiver breathy, as if we're discussing something sacred and intimate, say, like The Northern Lights, or new form of tax evasion. 'So, tell me', she confided, a pause...